Bathrooms are not the ideal environment for wood floors. They are usually hot and humid places, and wood expands when it is exposed to moisture and heat. When done correctly, a wood floor offers a very attractive finish to a bathroom.
4 Steps to Follow:
1. Ensuring there is a moisture protection layer
If dampness rises into the wood, the wood will quickly become unhygienic, smell bad and rot. It is essential to ensure that there is an adequate moisture protection layer under the floor.
The idea is to minimize the woods exposure to humidity and different types of wood have different resistances to moisture and heat. That makes it important to check with your wood supplier to verify that the particular material is suitable to be used in bathrooms. Generally, engineered wood is more suitable for warm and humid environments.
Check that there is no moisture underneath the flooring, and no sign of there having been moisture. If there is, then a new moisture protection layer should go under the wood floor.
2. Removing the toilet
Turn off the water supply by closing the local valve. Disconnect the pipe that feeds the water tank from the water tank. Next, use up all the water so the tank empties.
At the base of the unit there will be two threaded studs protruding from the floor. These are used to secure the toilet with two nuts screwed onto the studs.
To remove the toilet, unscrew the nuts from the studs and lift it from its position. A spanner or adjustable wrench are the perfect tools. Lift it up vertically because there will probably be a bracket on the wall that the tank lifts out of.
If the nuts are very tight, you can spray some penetrating oil and give the spanner a few light taps with a hammer. Be sure to undo the nuts in an anti-clockwise direction!
At this point, things might get a little wet, and few old towels should be made available for the area to be quickly dried. It’s a good idea to move the toilet to another room so it does not get in the way.
Once it has been removed, the flange will be exposed and that should also be removed by unscrewing it, and lifting it out.
3. Installing the floor
You can now install the floor while remembering that there has to be an expansion gap around the edge. This should be three eighths of an inch all the way around and can be filled with silicon that is specially designed for use in bathrooms.
Leave a gap in the floor where the flange was and where the two studs protrude. If you need to, you can use a pad saw to cut away any sides or pieces of new wood board.
If the new wood floor boards have raised the level of the floor, it might be necessary to buy a flange extension kit from a plumbing supplies. There might also be some available adjustment to height on your current flange.
If the two studs used to secure the toilet are now too short, then they will need replacing. Simply unscrew them with grips and replace them with longer ones that account for the extra height.
New studs can be cut to length with a metal hacksaw. Usually the studs appear extended above with some extra length, so even if the floor has been raised, the studs might not need replacing.
It is sensible to replace the wax ring on the base. Remove the old one first and clean the area with mineral spirit. If you are using the original flange, clean that with mineral spirit. When all is prepared, put the wax ring onto the base.
Carefully position the toilet into place. Remember there might be a bracket on the wall that the water tank slots into. Replace the nuts onto the studs and secure everything.
Connect the water feed to the water tank and turn on the local water supply. Now you can make sure it works properly with no leaks at the base. The last step is to add some silicon around the bottom between the toilet and your nice new wood floor.
When done correctly following practical steps, it is really simple to install a wood floor around a toilet.